Showing posts with label books. Show all posts
Showing posts with label books. Show all posts

Saturday, October 24, 2020

Two-Pièce de Résistance: All-Star Cover Girls, 2006

I know I’m on record saying that more than two girls in a single photo is overkill. But …

Photo: Raphael Mazzucco

This one is different. These girls aren’t posing. They’re standing around in an unguarded moment. Some them seem to be laughing at a comment one of them made. They’re not twisting their bodies or finding their light or trying to tilt their “best sides” to the camera. They’re just … kind of … standing there. Being beautiful.

This particular shot is from Mazzucco’s book Exposure. The shoot is full of sultry, posed shots: one girl, two girls, all eight girls, purring at the camera, lounging on the sand, resting their bodies upon other bodies. “Heaven” is a great title for Walter Iooss Jr.’s swimsuit book, but it might even be more appropriate for Mazzucco’s. The fact that they’re all in white lends it an extra sense of eternal paradise.

I mean, good lord.

There’s something I find amazing about multi-girl shoots that I don’t think I’ve mentioned before.

Sara and Gigi, Julie and Jessica, Angie and Rebecca, Ashley and everyone — each girl knows she’s not only offering up her body as a male fantasy, she’s also allowing herself to be half that male fantasy. She’s collaborating with another model, knowing she won’t even be the exclusive focus of the male gaze. It’s that “objectification” thing I keep trying to describe (without sounding like a creep) — but multiplied.

Even now, after decades of looking at the swimsuit issue, I still have this joyful bewilderment that the models are okay with us looking. It’s that “permission” I’ve mentioned before. Every time a model in an interview makes some fun, winking, giggly reference to how small her swimsuit is, or how much skin she’s exposing, it brings a smile to my face. And here we have eight smiling models, all in on it together.

Thursday, September 24, 2020

Two-Pièce de Résistance: Karen Mulder, 1997

I've always thought this photo of Karen was lovely.

Photo: André Rau

It makes me stop and stare every time I come across it.

It’s a very Grace Kelly look, which makes sense because the shoot was in Monaco. SI has done other “retro” themes, like Laetitia Casta’s “history of swimwear” shoot in 2000 and Heidi Klum’s “Varga girl” bodypainting in 2006.


Karen's pic feels a little different. Her swimsuit isn't particularly retro, but all the other visual elements are: the hair, the makeup, the coy pose, the peaches-and-cream smirk. Her spread in this issue told kind of a celebrity story, in which she’s strolling through her rarefied lifestyle, surrounded by reporters and pampered dogs and helicopters.

I know nothing about photography, but I think it has a different look from most swimsuit shoots. They used fashion photographer André Rau, and I believe this is his only shoot for SI, so they were going for a specific sheen.


Karen has a darker and more bizarre connection to Grace Kelly and Monaco, which I won’t get into, but suffice it to say Karen has had some darkness in her life. It’s hard to reconcile that darkness with such a pretty, charming, well-coifed image.

I’m reminded of this shot from Walter Iooss’s “Heaven” book. 

It’s Petra Nemcova, shot in Vietnam for the 2003 issue. Iooss has this to say about the photo:

“This is a picture I never really looked at until Petra nearly drowned in the Indian Ocean tsunami disaster almost two years after we visited Vietnam. It’s not a happy or sexy image by any means but there is something telling to it considering what later happened to her. Her history makes this picture a little more interesting.”

I disagree on one point — I think this is a very sexy image. But it’s also somber, imbued by tragedy with more weight.

I think it’s useful to be reminded that a lot of turmoil can exist beneath the most serene photo. We’re looking at a very controlled, final image.

Sunday, January 28, 2018

Turning Back the Pages

This is old news, but here’s Paulina Porizkova wearing nothing but a bikini bottom and a book.

She shared it on her Instagram to endorse the mind-enriching act of reading and also to show off her 52-year-old body.

If she were to pull a Christie Brinkley and pop back into a swimsuit for a few shots with SI, I’d be in favor of that.

She also recently posted this German Vogue cover of Gigi Hadid wearing some sort of jumpsuit festooned with retro Vogue covers.

Paulina’s cover from September of 1986 appears twice on Gigi’s right.

And hey, here’s another Playboy! August of 1987 brought us Paulina in a foldout cover with the bunny hidden in her hair under her left triceps.

• • •

Speaking of 80s throwbacks, here’s a preview video of the 2018 swimsuit issue.



I see neon colors, check patterns, and sky-high-cut bikini bottoms. The 80s are back.

Barbara Palvin
Hailey Clauson
Chase Carter
Hailey Clauson
Robin Holzken

And SI can’t seem to stop dressing up their models as previous models. Here are some of the “final 15” from their open casting call, gathered at Miami Swim Week, whatever that was. Most or all of them seem to be wearing bikinis we first saw on other models in previous issues.
Left to right, this is Olivia Jordan, Kate de Paz, Stefanie Rachel, Keyeriah Miles, Kayla Fitzgerald, and Dessie Mitcheson.

Olivia is wearing Marisa Miller’s suit from the 2008 cover.

Kate’s bikini is similar, though not identical, to Myla Dalbesio’s from last year.

Keyeriah is clearly invoking Irina Shayk from 2011.

And Dessie is dressed as Hannah Davis from 2015.

If Stefanie’s and Kayla’s are from other years, I haven’t been able to place them. They both look like the kind of candy-colored bikinis we saw on Alyssa Miller from 2011, but I have nothing conclusive.

Anyway, we’re getting closer! I’m looking forward to it, but in kind of a mild, matter-of-fact way. I’m hoping to get more excited as time goes on.

Sunday, June 4, 2017

I Love New Pics In June, How About You?

I think I have to decide if I’m actually writing this blog again or if I’m just popping in to comment on the 2017 issue, which has now been out for three and a half months.

Anyway, it’s been a week of swimsuit news. Heidi Klum has a new book of nudes that I probably won’t buy for $134.


Though honestly, I’m kind of tempted. If it were in the price range of the hardcover books that SI Swimsuit puts out from time to time, I might just pony up for it. Seems like kind of an event.


• • •

Also, SI Swim is creating its own line of swimwear.

That page includes a little video featuring Julie Henderson talking about her bikini, which is kind of music to my ears.

• • •

And finally, SI has released an avalanche of new, large photos from 2017. They’re in multiple batches: Fiji, Mexico, Curaçao, and Sumba Island.


These aren’t leftovers. I prefer a lot of these to a lot from the “official” release back in February.


This pic of Hannah Ferguson is worth the price of admission.

Saturday, May 30, 2015

The Swimsuit Issue, by the Book

My biggest regret about this blog is that I never got around to talking in depth about this 1997 book:


The Swimsuit Issue and Sport: Hegemonic Masculinity in Sports Illustrated, by Laurel R. Davis. An entire book dedicated to a scholarly study of the swimsuit issue!

I had planned to write about it, for literally years. I read it two or three times, taking notes. But I never got around to it. And at some point, SI’s web presence stopped the feature where you could virtually flip through old issues of the magazine. That was a big blow—I wanted to find specific photos and captions Davis referenced in the book.

Spoiler alert: It’s anti-swimsuit issue. But it’s a lot more complex in its approach than you might assume.

Before I go, I thought I’d jot down a few things about it.

• Sometimes it’s a little too scholarly.
And I don’t mean “hard to read,” but rather “willing to disappear into overanalysis and theory.” Davis spends a lot of time establishing that, yes, the swimsuit issue is aimed at straight guys. And a significant portion of a chapter is spent trying to figure out if the swimsuit issue is porn or art or advertising or pin-up. She lists arguments in favor and against each category. For example:

Is it porn?
PRO: It definitely plays on sexuality. CON: It’s too tame.

Is it art?
PRO: The photography is top quality and the photographers are credited. CON: It’s a mass-produced sports magazine.

Is it advertising?
PRO: The swimwear is identified by designer and price. CON: The primary intent is not to sell swimwear.

Well, that leaves the most obvious choice: pin-up. But even that might not be a useful or reliable term, “because the consumers often disagree with each other about the degree of sexual meaning expressed by texts from the pin-up genre.”

Only in an academic analysis can the obvious be so deftly obscured.


• I think the author would like the ESPN Body Issue a lot more.
She states at the beginning of the book that, “after reading a wide variety of feminist scholarship on pornography, nude bodies in art, pin-ups, and advertising, I became convinced that sexual images and objectification should not be seen as the enemy of feminism.” She thinks hot bodies have their place, but she levels some pretty familiar (and fair) criticisms at the swimsuit issue: What does this have to do with sports? Why feature these women with not-specifically-athletic bodies? Isn’t it sexist to assume that straight guys are the only fans of sports (and Sports Illustrated)?

The book was published way before the ESPN’s Body Issue existed. But (as I’ve pointed out) ESPN is a foil to the swimsuit issue; it features actual athletes, male and female. It’s nowhere near as difficult to justify as part of a sports magazine.



• I think Davis had to backtrack—just a little—with the dawn of Tyra Banks.
I noticed that she claimed to have studied every swimsuit issue from 1964 to 1991, and also 1996. I couldn’t figure out why she skipped 1992 through 1995. Then I noticed that part of her criticism is the magazine’s lack of black models.

This happened in 1996:

So she had to quickly include a reference to Tyra's first cover, as the number of covers featuring black models had jumped from zero to one. I believe (I can’t find it in my notes) she tempers it by pointing out that even in 1996, the black model had to be paired with a blonde white model to help her go down more easily.

If she had expanded her sample one more year, she would have seen this:

Granted, that’s where black cover models end: two consecutive years of Tyra. (Yes, we had Beyonce as well. But she was on the cover because of a marketing partnership and a music theme. She didn’t arrive there by the grueling cover selection process that the other girls—from Babette to Elle to Tyra to Hannah—had to go through.) The cover remains almost entirely caucasian, and that needs to change.


• Davis gets a little ethnocentric in her criticism of ethnocentricity.
She interviewed several unnamed producers of the magazine and asked them for some behind-the-scenes info. When she asked them about race, she noticed that a lot of the producers assumed “race” meant “black”:  
“Interestingly, many of the interviewed producers equate ‘people of color’ with ‘African-American,’ ignoring the underrepresentation of Asian-Americans, Latina-Americans, and Native-Americans.”

Here, Davis unwittingly displays a touch of ethnocentricity of her own: Who says the models need to be American at all?

Oluchi is African.

Jessica is half Chinese, half Portuguese, from Australia.

These ladies are from Brazil.
(Which, yes, is in South America, but I don’t think that’s the “-American” Davis is referring to.)

Even the lily-white chicks are from Eastern Europe and New Zealand and the Netherlands and Russia and Spain and France.

I admit, this is just a “gotcha” on my part. Davis’s points—that other races are poorly represented—stands. But it’s an interesting slip. In calling for an openness to the world’s races, she accidentally ignores the non-America world.


• I think she overplays her hand a little.
Something strikes me as very 90s-university-social-critique about this book. I think there are good points to make about sexuality and gender roles in a study of the swimsuit issue. But:
“Feminist critiques of Sports Illustrated generally, and its swimsuit issue in particular, need to address the contemporary components of hegemonic masculinity. As feminists of both genders attempt to reduce aggression and violence that injures women and men, those who support hegemonic masculinity help to produce this violence in sport, homes, and wars.”

Is she linking the swimsuit issue to domestic violence and war??

I guess a more fair description is that she sees it as part of a larger tapestry that includes violence—not that there’s a direct link between Judit Masco in a bikini and Desert Storm. But it does seem like she’s relying on the swimsuit issue to do a lot of heavy lifting in some major global issues.


• Davis may have missed a big story.
She references Media Watch, an organization dedicated to fighting sexism in the media. But—unless I missed it—she doesn’t mention that Media Watch was founded by this woman:

Ann Simonton was the cover girl of the 1974 swimsuit issue. Later she left the industry to become a feminist activist, and she is quite anti-swimsuit issue.

Maybe Davis didn’t know about the link. I can’t imagine why she wouldn’t have explored that detail—it seems custom tailored to her book.


There’s a whole section on the swimsuit issue as “tourism” and the exotification of other cultures—locals as props and stereotypes—that ties in directly with this controversy from the “seven continents” issue. But I sadly don’t have the time to go deeply into that section.

Anyway, if you are interested, and it’s at your local library, check it out. It’s a quick, interesting read. I respect the fact that Davis explicitly states that she doesn’t want to equate “feminism” with “anti-sex,” and her approach makes sure to keep the critiques deeper than “pictures of naked ladies are wrong.”

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Same Suit, Different Babe: Kim and Carol, 1983

Bellazon user Juju62 has been tirelessly collecting scans of swimsuit issues and calendars from the 80s and 90s. Because of his efforts, I found a new “Same Suit, Different Babe”: Kim Alexis in the 1983 issue, Carol Alt in the subsequent 1984 Calendar

You may notice that the design on the suit is reversed. I’m not sure which photo was flipped, but there may be a clue in Heaven.
This is the Kim suit as it appears in the coffee table book. It matches Carol’s. So I’m guessing Kim’s was flipped for the magazine.

Happy One-Piece Wednesday.

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Quiche Lorraine

Bonus Topless Tuesday: Lorraine Pascale, 1998

I just found out that Lorraine, a one-hit wonder from 1998, is a bit of a celebrity chef in the UK. She has a book that's just been released this side of the pond.


This doesn't look like it was intended to be a topless suit. But like any brilliant chef, Lorraine improvises to cook up a masterpiece.